At just 16 years old, Beckett Hsin has become the youngest climber in the world to send V17.
His ascent of No One Mourns The Wicked V17 represents more than a milestone grade. It is a bold extension of one of Colorado’s most iconic hard boulders. The climb was first ascended by Nathaniel Coleman in December of 2024, and adds a brutally difficult sit start into Defying Gravity V15, the legendary line first established by Daniel Woods over a decade ago. By linking a powerful V12/V13 sequence into the opening crux of Defying Gravity, Beckett has made history by becoming the youngest climber ever to send V17.
Despite the historic outcome, the motivation behind the climb was surprisingly simple. Beckett was not chasing headlines or records. The project started with curiosity and the natural excitement that comes from being drawn to a climb.
The Inspiration
Defying Gravity had been on Beckett’s radar for a long time. After successfully sending the original V15 line earlier in the season, he began experimenting with the lower moves below the established start. At first it was just playful exploration, but the more time he spent on the rock, the more the idea of a sit start began to feel possible.
“Defying Gravity had always been a boulder I was psyched on,” Beckett says.
The timing also helped fuel the motivation. Several climbers were working the line at the time, and the energy around the boulder naturally pulled him in. What began as experimenting soon evolved into a full project.
The Move That Defines the Climb
Like many legendary problems, the climb revolves around a single defining moment.
“The entire boulder revolves around the first move of Defying,” Beckett explains. “A single move V14.”
For most climbers, that move alone is a lifetime project. It requires extreme tension, precise body positioning, and the ability to generate power through a small window of movement.
What makes No One Mourns The Wicked especially demanding is that the move does not come at the start. Beckett first had to complete a difficult sequence of powerful sit start moves before even arriving at the crux.
“Mastering this move was difficult on its own,” he says, “but adding in a V13-ish sequence directly into it was a whole different game.”
Training for the Problem
Rather than relying on a rigid training cycle, Beckett approached the project with a highly specific mindset. The movement on the boulder was unique enough that the most effective training was simply spending time on the climb itself.
“The moves are pretty unique, so the best training for me was just spending a lot of time on the boulder.”
Outside of sessions on the rock, he tried to recreate similar movements in the gym, setting problems and exercises that mimicked the tension and body positions required for the climb. The approach was simple and direct. Instead of theoretical training blocks, it was about repetition, familiarity, and refining every subtle detail of the movement.
Small Details That Matter
At the highest level of climbing, even minor details can make the difference between falling and sending. Beckett kept his chalk routine simple but deliberate. Beckett said “I’d use a layer of liquid chalk, let it dry, then use Gorilla Grip. If my skin felt sweaty, I’d put some chalk on the top of my pants so I could easily chalk up before the crux”.
These small adjustments allowed him to stay efficient during attempts when every second of focus mattered.
The Send Day
The day Beckett finally completed the climb did not start smoothly. He felt physically strong but struggled to produce high quality attempts during the first few hours of the session.
“The day I sent was pretty surreal,” he says. “I felt good all day, but was giving bad attempts for the first few hours.”
As the day wore on, his energy began to fade and the window for success seemed to be closing. Then the momentum shifted. His motivation returned and the attempts started improving, even as the light and his strength were running out.
Eventually he made a simple decision.
“I told myself I only had three burns left before calling it.”
With the pressure of a final attempt looming, everything finally aligned. On the third and final burn, he topped out the boulder and completed the full line.
“Somehow I sent.”
Photo credits: Bryce Bozovich
Sharing the Experience With Daniel Woods
Another unique aspect of the experience was the opportunity to share sessions with Daniel Woods, the climber who originally established Defying Gravity.
For Beckett, climbing alongside someone he had admired since he first started climbing added another layer of meaning to the process.
“I have a huge amount of respect for Daniel and everything he’s done. I’ve looked up to him pretty much since I started climbing.”
The atmosphere during those sessions was collaborative and relaxed. There was plenty of joking around, but also the ability to quickly shift into serious attempts when the moment called for it.
The Youngest V17
With the successful ascent, Beckett became the youngest climber in history to send a V17. It is a milestone that would define many climbers’ careers. Yet during the months he spent projecting the climb, it was never something he thought much about. His focus remained on the challenge of the boulder itself and the opportunity to push his own limits.
“My goal with NOMTW had always been to push my own limits,” he says.
Then he laughs.
“But I guess being the youngest is a cool bonus too.”
Looking Ahead
After months dedicated to a single project, Beckett now finds himself in a rare moment without a massive objective looming in the background. The feeling, he says, is freeing.
“It feels pretty freeing now that I’ve sent.”
Instead of locking into another massive project immediately, he is excited to explore more of Colorado’s world class bouldering. Many lines have been sitting quietly on his list while he focused on larger goals.
He is also looking forward to new independence once he gets his driver’s license later this spring, which will make exploring even easier.
Beyond bouldering, Beckett is excited to shift some of his attention to ropes as well. This summer he plans to spend more time sport climbing and expanding his experience beyond the boulders.
Advice for Younger Climbers
For younger climbers who look up to achievements like this, Beckett’s advice is refreshingly simple.
“Follow what you’re psyched on. Enjoy the process.”
The goal does not have to be the hardest climb in the world. Whether it is a personal outdoor project, competing at competitions, or simply spending time climbing, what matters most is genuine motivation.
As Beckett puts it, “As long as you’re psyched and willing to put in work to improve, you will.”
Photo credits: Bryce Bozovich
